March, 2007

Feel the energy--that and a long overdue trip with by best friend--was my goal for this trip to Sedona. We flew to Phoenix, rented a car and as we drove we listed all the things we could try to see and do. Happily we checked off most of them in our 2 1/2 day visit.

Coming from the east and west coasts, respectively, our drive from Phoenix revealed an amazing and vast wilderness of scrubby desert plants that soon changed to fields of Saguaro cacti . We climbed to an elevation to over 5,000 ft.

The Land of Kokopelli

We made the Kokopelli Inn (review) in the Village of Oak Creek our base. This is the land of Kokopelli. In case you are not familiar, Kokopelli is a fertility deity represented as a line drawing of a dancing native flute player--his image is everywhere from the "World's Largest Kokopelli" statue south of town at an interchange off 179, to jewelry, to art, to garden ornamentation.

Back to our lodgings: The innkeeper I'd spoken to--the friendly Mr. Ram--had indeed given us a room with a stunning view of both Courthouse Rock and Bell Rock--two of the majestic red rock outcroppings that the area is known for. He also tipped us off to a great Thai restaurant called Tara Thai (review) just up the road.

Montezuma Castle National Monument

The first day we decided to postpone our pleasures in Sedona and instead see some surrounding sites. We began by touring the Montezuma Castle National Monument to the south (totally unrelated to the Aztec leader Montezuma). After a quick look in the museum and gift shop, visitors take a lovely stroll past giant white-trunked sycamore trees on an accessible loop pathway that leads along the valley floor below the magnificent cliff dwellings of the Sinagua Indians (1100-1400 AD). These are considered to be the best-preserved prehistoric structures in the Southwest. A 5-story, 20-room dwelling is tucked into the cliff wall about 100 feet above ground level (not open to visitors). The natives apparently used a series of ladders to access them. Additionally, there are scant remains of another series of dwellings at the base of the cliff a bit farther on. There is a scale diorama of the whole settlement as it once might have been--women grinding corn, weaving, carrying pots of water, children playing (watch out: no child safety railings on these front porches!) as the narration coaxes viewers to imagine more than the barren rock face and ruins, to picture the sights and sounds of life in this fertile valley over 600 years ago.

Tuzigoot National Monument

We then drove across highway 260 to Tuzigoot National Monument (SW of Sedona) another site of early Native American dwellings atop a big hill. The name is an Apache word for "crooked water." Visitors may walk through these ruins, and may even enter and explore some of the rooms. Only partial stone walls remain in much of the settlement, but it originally had 77 rooms and was 2 stories in places. Looking downhill from the top, these stone rooms have the appearance of a honeycomb. The observant tourist may notice there are no doorways. One unique feature of the Sinagua's architecture was that primary entrance to the rooms was not through doors, but rather through openings in the roofs.

Jerome

We decided to move forward in history, but not quite to the present day. We headed into Jerome, a 1900 copper mining town set into the side of a steep mountain. Once referred to as "The Wickedest Town in the West," it's now a mixture of quaint shops, artist galleries, restaurants, and old dilapidated buildings waiting for either a facelift or complete demolition. We walked the three main streets that are practically parallel to one another up the hillside. Once, years back when my husband rode his bike through the town, he was told if he fell off the edge of the road he could hit the same road several times on his fall down! We bought a few gifts--pottery, blown glass jewelry, a t-shirt, small souvenirs. We pitched coins down one story into an open outhouse in a courtyard that was once the Bartlett Hotel--an interesting way to raise money for future restoration. We ate a fabulous lunch at the Red Rooster Cafe (review). Then we paid a visit to the town's Catholic Church--a tiny (maximum capacity 49), sweet old chapel with pressed tin walls and ceiling, pretty statuary, and some historical photos and documents at the back.

Sedona

Late in the day we drove back toward Sedona on highway 89. We marveled at the moon rising above the majestic red rocks the area is known for and we cruised Sedona's main drag whetting our appetites for the next day's itinerary. We even began our self guided vortex tour by driving Upper Red Rock Loop Road past Cathedral Rock (one of 4 main vortex locations--spots known to be high-energy sites). Along the way we caught a glimpse of some fabulous high end properties off the main road. Perhaps some very rich new age people have situated themselves at the vortexes, hoping to soak in the energy and live forever! We continued on to the "airport overlook," another of the vortexes, and took in the scenery. A bit back down that road we parked and climbed to the top of the red rock. Overcoming our increasing fear of heights, we could look out over the deep canyon and see other giant red rock pinnacles and buttes, we certainly had the feeling that something special was going on. It could be the natural beauty--the scenery is amazing; it could be the contagious vibes of other spiritual seekers (a lady nearby was reading goddess cards and we observed a shaman-led ceremony taking place on the edge of a plateau across the canyon); or it could be energy arising from the vortex area--who is to say?

Red Rocks

The next day we were up early for breakfast at the motel and on to hike to the base of Bell Rock (site of another main energy vortex). We sat on a low ledge with our backs against the massive red rock and felt the energy (or maybe it was the glorious Arizona sun). Next we went to the Chapel of the Holy Cross--an ultra modern Catholic church built into the rock with a 90 ft. cross cutting down through a crevice. It was designed By Marguerite Brunswig Staude (who was influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright and collaborated with his son Lloyd Wright) and given to the church as a gift in 1957. It draws many visitors from around the world and from numerous faith traditions--visitors find the chapel a peaceful place to rest or pray. It is very simple inside--the crucifix behind the altar a sculpture of Christ's head with only the hint of a cross behind it and light shining on his face; the Stations of the Cross are represented by Roman numerals fashioned symbolically out of large nails similar to railroad spikes. Tinted glass front windows, bisected by the giant cross, offer a commanding view of the landscape, and since the back wall of the church is glass as well, visitors standing on the patio to the rear can look straight through the church. I had a psychic experience or at least a very big coincidence following our visit: I had been trying to recall a special prayer while there and my friend wasn't sure of its exact wording. At lunch she opened a book of daily Lenten readings and 'my' prayer was the one for that day!

Back to Sedona

Driving on to Sedona we reached the downtown, found a public parking lot and started to shop. We soon decided we needed lunch. The Mexican Restaurant Oaxaca (review) had been recommended and it looked and smelled great, so in we went. After a few drinks and a full lunch we were in no shape for too much shopping, but we did browse through a few downtown shops picking up the requisite gifts for family and friends. In the Sedona Crystal Vortex we were offered psychic readings and aura photographs. We politely declined. I did, however, purchase a silver ring engraved with the Om symbol (to remind me to breathe) and a mineral sample of "Apache tears" (actually volcanic obsidian in Perlite) for a gift. There was a crowded old time fudge shop, Grumpy Joe's souvenirs, lots of jewelry stores, and probably much more, but we needed to get back to the outdoors, so off we went for a drive and then a hike.

Slide Rock State Park

We drove out of town on 89A toward Flagstaff. We had no intention of going that far but wanted, instead, to see the first scenic part of the route that runs along Oak Creek. Red rock mountains on our left and the drop down to the pretty creek on the right, we drove across a dramatic bridge, saw sunbathers on big flat rocks, and watched dog owners letting their pets cavort in the cold creek water. Once we got to the gate of Slide Rock State Park we turned around and headed back. On a future trip when the weather is hot this would be the ideal spot--as there is a 30 ft. natural stone water slide in the creek and plenty of room to splash and swim for the whole family! If time had permitted there were beautiful hikes farther on up the road in Oak Creek Canyon as well.

Javelinas at Boynton Canyon

Next stop, another prime vortex location, this one set in Boynton Canyon, the full hike into the box canyon was 3-4 hour hike. Because we didn't have enough daylight left we did a 2 hour hike and enjoyed some beautiful scenery through varying terrains: woods, hugging the base of a giant red rock mountain, crossing smooth flat stones, and into the sandy ancient riverbed of the box canyon itself. All the while we could gaze up for an ever changing view of rock faces--some of which we began to name for their shapes.

The best wildlife sighting was two javelinas (small wild peccaries) rooting around in the brush near a dry creek. We caught a glimpse of Coffeepot Rock on our way back to town--it took me a while to recognize the silhouette of an old fashioned tall coffee pot with spout and lid. Like the other famous shapes--once you do 'get it' then comes the ah ha moment and you'll recognize it anywhere! We were tired after a full day, so we picked up salads to go at the Safeway and retired to our room to organize ourselves for an early morning departure.

Depart

The next morning we were leaving too early to partake of the Kokopelli waffle breakfast; we instead opted for a light snack and tea at Starbucks on the way to the Phoenix airport. Sedona and the surrounding area has a lot to offer--we got a taste of its flavor but certainly didn't sample it all. I'd go back for some more outdoor adventures, some pampering at a spa, a solitary retreat, or even a bit more shopping!