November, 2008
Rating:
8 out of 10
Tariff : Lunch for 4
- 4 entrees or chaat
- 3 mango lassi drinks
- 1 soda
- 1 chai tea
- 2 desserts
- tip
- $
- assorted mixed sweets
Atmosphere
Vik’s is a hidden gem in Berkeley.
Located a few blocks off University Ave. near the I-80
freeway in a warehouse--yes the kind with the huge roll-up
metal doors—is this bustling chamber of Indian delights both
savory and sweet. After entering you will see a glass case
featuring all manner of Indian sweets—one of the freshest
and most varied selections I have found in the area. A huge
blackboard on the wall features the regular chaat menu and
the weekend specials. There is a long counter, similar to a
deli, and an even longer line of hungry patrons. Even
though Vik’s is out of the way it is well known by locals
and especially the East Bay’s Indian population. You place
your order at one end of the counter, pay, and pick up
drinks. Go find yourself a table and wait. When the
loudspeaker calls your name, go to the far end of the
counter to pick up the trays of your order. From there the
cooks and all the commotion of the kitchen are visible. I
should note that since its opening Vik’s has made some
improvements in décor. They built real doors for when the
giant metal doors are rolled up, they opened a second dining
room, improved tables and chairs, added a few decorative
carved wooden screens, etc. It is still a far cry from
fancy. Regardless, the real reason to go is not the
ambiance but the great food and great prices.
Service
As you might have guessed, service
is not a highlight. It is usually very busy. There can be a
long line. The people at the counter are nice enough and
patient considering so many folks are trying to figure out
the menu items. Everything else is basically self
serve—condiments, water, napkins, bus your own trash, etc.
Food
Now for the good part—the food!
Everything is freshly cooked to order—dosas (lentil crepes)
cooked on huge griddles, enormous Bhatura (puffed up bread)
deep fried to a golden tan, mixed veg pakoras (fritters)
batter dipped, fried, and served with mint chutney…. I
usually lean towards the specialties that are more difficult
or labor intensive to make at home. Some of our favorites
include Keema Samosa, which are spicy ground lamb and peas
wrapped in flaky pastry and served with chutney. The dosas,
mentioned above, are like a big crispy crepe filled with
spiced potatoes and served with coconut chutney. Note that
the sweet or cooling chutneys, cucumber raita, and the like
often serve as a counterpoint to the spicy or heavy fried
foods. Watch out, though, not all relishes are mild. Achaar,
for example, is a highly spiced pickled veggie that goes
well with breads and biryanis. Paratha (stuffed breads) come
plain or with potato, cauliflower or meat fillings. Cholle
Bhatura is a bowl of spiced chickpeas served with the giant
deep fried bread atop it and some onions and spicy pickle on
the side. Beverage choices are regular or Indian sodas, chai
(tea with spices), and mango lassi. This last is similar to
a mango shake (made with yogurt and mango puree) and is very
refreshing as well as being a good antidote to the spicier
dishes. Dishes we haven’t liked as much are the biryanis
(mixed rice dishes) which seem too highly spiced and the
lamb kababs that were dry and hard balls of seasoned ground
lamb (we were expecting succulent chunks of grilled meat).
The sweets are hard to describe as
we don’t really have anything like many of them in our
culinary heritage. I have heard burfi described as being
like fudge—some has a similar consistency to fudge and it is
usually served cut into squares, but it is not made of
chocolate; rather most burfi is made by a process of cooking
and thickening milk and flavoring it with various spices
like cardamom or nuts like almond or pistachio. Gulab Jamun
also starts with thickened milk formed into dough, rolled
into balls, deep fried, and then cooked in cardamom scented
syrup. Rasmalai is made similarly with milk but then the
little patties or balls are soaked in a rich creamy sauce
with ground pistachios (the ultimate in Indian desserts in
my opinion). Gelabis are a batter that is squeezed into hot
oil making circles and squiggles, kind of like a funnel
cake, then the whole thing is cooked in bright red or orange
syrup to make a sticky sweet confection. There are Ladus,
which are made of deep fried graham (chickpea) flour, cooked
in sugar syrup, then rolled into balls; these have a grainy
chewy texture. All the desserts are worth a try—if you are
dining with a group get one or two of each and you can each
take a taste.
If you need food to go, you order it
the same way. We always take home sweets. Next door is a
small Indian grocery shop for cooking ingredients, ice
creams, frozen foods, veggies and fruits, etc.
If you’re in the know, Vik’s is the
place to go!
Vik's Chaat Corner
726 Alston Way
Berkeley, CA 94710
510-644-4412 |
