November, 2005

Rating : 9 out of 10

Tariff : 3 course dinner for 2

• 1 bottle wine
• 1 appetizer
• 1 salad
• 2 entrees
• 2 desserts
• tip
• $220

Atmosphere

Aqua is a trendy and very good seafood restaurant at 252 California Street in downtown San Francisco. The decor is boldly colored in earthy tones with giant floral arrangements in terracotta planters along a low wall that separates the bar area from the dining area. It is loud because of the two combined spaces but not unpleasant. When we dined there had been a bit of renovation going on, but fortunately the only real evidence of it was on the ceiling with paint and lighting. Aqua is not very large, but has high ceilings and all around the room are enormous, heavily-framed mirrors, literally mirroring the front plate glass window and thus creating the effect of a much bigger, lighter restaurant.

Food

The dining style is unique in that there are two methods of ordering. One is a prix fixe 3 course menu priced at $68 and the other is called a tasting menu with 7 courses, priced at $95. We chose the first and ended up being treated to a sample of two appetizers and a selection of tiny desserts in addition to our choices! The serving staff is extremely knowledgeable and attentive. Our server could describe every item in detail, including unusual items, sauces, reductions, accompaniments, and cooking techniques. Someone was ready to help with appetizers, wine selection, breads, clearing plates, changing silverware and even napkins between courses, refilling wine surreptitiously, and crumbing the table.

Appetizers

We were offered tastes of two appetizers, one a bit of seafood mousse on a taro chip and the other a tiny cup of pumpkin soup. Both were delicious. For one of our selections we decided to splurge and try the special, which was a warm, sautéed foie gras in sherry sauce with almonds, grapes, onions, and tiny shreds of duck breast. It was pure decadence--our karmas will surely suffer for enjoying it. The cold spiny lobster salad was refreshing. A good-sized tail was laid on several paper thin layers of crisp fuyu persimmon and with a pomegranate vinaigrette, . There was a bread server who came to the table with a beautiful tray and silver tongs and served a choice of 3 breads.

Entrees

I chose the John Dory, a light, fried fish over several tiny pieces of pork belly and tiny gnocchi with a gremolata sauce. The fish was wonderful, but I would have liked a bit more of the accompanying items, especially the gnocchi, which were very tender and delicate. I could have done without the soft, steamed endives (again with the endives!). My companion had sturgeon en papillotte with Swiss chard, speck ham, and a cranberry bean mushroom Jus. The rounds of crisp fish had a thin layer of trumpet mushrooms under the pastry crust, making the fish much more exotic.

Wine

The restaurant offered an extensive wine list--by the bottle and by the glass--with a professional sommelier circulating to offer assistance. The tasting menu suggests wine parings for each course. If you elect to bring your own wine, however, the corkage fee is $30! We selected a hearty Chianti Classico.

Dessert

There were at least 7 choices for dessert plus a 3 cheese plate (additional charge of $14). We had the Oak Spice Crème Brulee. This was a thin round of hazelnut cake, a layer of crème brulee, and crumbled burnt sugar on top--instead of a smooth coating--the sauce was a raspberry zinfandel coulis. The three flavors and textures complimented each other well. Our other selection was Pear Soufflé with Lemon Verbena Infused Fall Fruits.

Aqua
252 California Street
San Francisco, CA 94111
415-956-9662